How To Repair A Iron Gate Loose Wall Bolt
- #i
I need some recommendations for plumbing fixtures a gatepost to a wall. The gate isn't big, maybe about waist height.
This will be my 3rd attempt at reattaching the gate post to the wall
1st try - used some masonry raw plugs i had laying about - 3 into the wall. Lasted nearly 4 months.
2nd attempt - bought some heavy duty raw plugs (bigger screws used) - three into the wall. Lasted virtually 8 months.
Having a look and it appears the raw plug has worked it fashion out of the brickwork, so looking at using something else this time round.
Screws get straight through the gatepost into the wall. Gatepost itself is about 9-10 cm, and so need some fairly longish ones.
Any recommendations?
- #iii
I would get with rawl bolts into the brick. All metal sleeve with a hex head bolt to get enough of purchase on.
- #6
When placing rawlplugs into the wall are you inserting the screw a few turns and and so hammering the rawlplug into the wall after placing the screw through whatever is going to be attached?
As an instance I used batons on an understairs area and using 10cm screws I would hammer these into the wall a adept 5cm - 7cm later placing them through the billy and into the rawlplug.
Declining that utilise chemical anchors (screwfix - toolstation stock for example) and some threaded bar into the wall. Once dry hang the gate.
Door frame screws are correct for this as well. Drill the hole, hammer it with the plug in and terminate the last few cm with a screwdriver.
https://world wide web.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/frame-hammer-fixings/cat840010
Cheers.
Nope i didn't practice that, just drilled the pigsty, knocked in the raw plug with a hammer, so put the spiral through the post and into the raw plug.
- #7
No sure how to really apply this?
So drill the hole slightly larger than normal, fill with resin. Then?
Do y'all and so put the rawl plug in and let it set earlier putting the screw in?
- #8
No sure how to really employ this?
So drill the pigsty slightly larger than normal, fill with resin. Then?
Practice y'all then put the rawl plug in and let information technology set before putting the screw in?
Probably better than me trying to explain if you lot go to Youtube and search for hybrid mortar resin.
Deleted member 498601
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- #10
Probably ameliorate than me trying to explain if you lot go to Youtube and search for hybrid mortar resin.
Cheers, just taken a expect.
And then looks like y'all put that bar into it, allow it set, then adhere the gate post and add a bolt. Simply slight concern is that i think ii of the points i've attached sit flush with where the gate opens - the supporting beam pinnacle and bottom (so it wouldn't sit totally flush). Not a massive deal billow, but could mean information technology doesn't open as broad compared to a spiral/hex bolt.
Ballast bolts ftw. I've used these to secure heavy steelwork to the side of many buildings. They ain't coming out.
https://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-northward...managedredirect-_-screwsfixings-_-anchorbolts
Edit: the M10 ones will exist manly plenty for your gate
Is the longest they practise 145mm? The gate post alone is about nine-10cm, so doesn't go out much to get into the wall
Deleted member 498601
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- #xi
Is the longest they practise 145mm? The gate post lone is about nine-10cm, and so doesn't leave much to get into the wall
I'm sure you can find longer ones elsewhere. I just put them up as a proposition. I've never fastened anything thicker than most 10mm to a wall I gauge. You could of form drill out one of the existing holes to be wider 50mm into the post big plenty to accomodate the commodities head/ washer and so employ a deep socket to tighten the bolt up (would give you some other 50mm in the wall?), simply that may be overcomplicating things...
- #thirteen
Thanks.
Nope i didn't practise that, but drilled the hole, knocked in the raw plug with a hammer, then put the screw through the mail service and into the raw plug.
Thing is that a lot of times you are not really anchoring the rawlplug enough by placing it simply into the hole.
Watch how a door frame is installed with hammer screws and you will run across what I hateful.
I would become with rawl bolts into the brick. All metallic sleeve with a hex caput bolt to get plenty of buy on.
All good if the brick is strong plenty to allow the commodities to expand as it is tightened.
I was about to recommend these. I hope it'south a good recommendation as I'm near to hang a much heavier gate with some
I have used the chemic blast tubes in the past and you could hang the Titanic off information technology when set up.
Last edited:
Deleted fellow member 498601
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- #xiv
They do longer ones, only in M16 and above which is getting seriously heavy duty. What you can do for the resin fitting is drill a diameter hole the depth of the nut + washer say about 20mm wide and 15mm deep into the outer face of the post, and so drill a hole for the threaded bar in that, that way the plumbing equipment will be beneath the level of the post.
I retrieve that's what I was saying to do for the anchor bolt.
Deleted member 24354
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- #16
Personally I'd use chemical resin with some threaded re-bar. Shield anchors are great into concrete and are OK for brickwork, but you can shatter bricks with them. Chemical resin will set harder than concrete and places less stress on the brickwork equally it is not expanding into them. The only thing to note nearly using resin is that you demand to spend a few minutes cleaning each pigsty, both past blowing them out and using a canteen castor earlier injecting the resin.
We recently hung some 65" TVs off some resin fixed subclass in a church building. The bracket held all 18 rock of my weight without budging.
- #17
I used thunderbolts when I did my gate. No thought how merely information technology's still solid every bit a stone.
Fixed a iii" post to my wall offset and then hung the gate off the post.
- #eighteen
Chemical resin + threaded rebar would be the about elegant solution, with anchor bolts being a second.
For your gate, if you use anchor bolts yous could drill a larger, shallow pigsty to bury the heads of the ballast bolts and let more of their length to stay in the wall. Don't go also far though, you'll lose strength...
- #xix
I think the problem is that because your post is 10cm and your bricks are probably 10cm, then yous probably end up with a longer length of screw or bolt in the post rather than the wall, so the principles of leverage would tend to make the wall section move and eventually come out. I hope that makes sense? My solution would be to fix metallic angle plates to each side of the postal service to prevent movement, drilled and bolted in to the wall and mail service should secure it.
Something like this. But make sure you fix them to both sides.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p6...MItbSZuqrf2wIVWGQZCh1eqwk2EAQYCiABEgJ3y_D_BwE
- #21
Don't forget to put spacers backside the wood then it doesn't trap moisture.
How To Repair A Iron Gate Loose Wall Bolt,
Source: https://www.avforums.com/threads/heavy-duty-fixings-for-gate-post-to-wall-3rd-attempt.2174423/
Posted by: mooresblaway.blogspot.com
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